List of Contents:
Safe Surface Insecticide
Boric Acid
Sealing or Waterproofing Concrete
|
|
A Safe Surface Insecticide may be formulated by dissolving Boric Acid (Sodium borate) in plain water to make a 5% to 10% solution of clear liquid. Heating the water first makes it easier to dissolve the white powder. Sodium Borate is readily available as drug stores and hardware stores. Follow the instructions on the bottle or package to obtain the right proportion.
This simple inexpensive, household chemical is deadly to all insects, is safe enough to use around children, and on interior surfaces (test first on a small hidden area to check for possible -- but rare -- discoloration of finishes). Don't expect instant results, give it some time, occasionally additional applications are needed. It lasts about a year, or until the surfaces are washed.
Many modern applications of this ancient item are showing up in products, and commercial treatments.
|
| |
|
|
|
A Boric Acid commonly in the form of Sodium borate, a white powder. is readily available as drug stores and hardware stores. This chemical has many interesting and useful characteristics. A few are discussed here such as use as an insecticide, a preservative,and a fire retardant.
This simple inexpensive, household chemical is deadly to all insects. It has been shown to attack their nervous systems, as well as being a drying agent to their bodies. Some evidence suggests that the borate can migrate across some barriers. In combination with certain non water chemical solvents ( such as ethylene glycol )it may migrate slightly into such objects as wood and concrete, following the solvent, and providing some degree of lasting protection. For a commercial development of such a product, see Bora-Care, and Boric Acid type insecticides & products.
As a general household insecticide it is safe enough to use around children, and has been used in ointments and salves for diaper rash on babies. It is also used, in a very dilute solution, as an eyewash.
It is also generally safe ( as an insecticide ) on interior surfaces (test first on a small hidden area to check for possible -- but rare -- discoloration of finishes).
Another well known and thoroughly proven use is in fire retardancy. It is the fire retardant used in all blown type cellulose insulation commonly used in homes.
As time passes, we will be adding much more info on other uses and formulations of this versatile and very safe chemical
|
| |
|
|
|
Concrete pavement can be preserved by treating the surface with a water resisting sealer. This can sometimes double or triple its life, especially if the concrete is weak or poorly finished, as is much of the concrete now being placed. Good concrete with intensive finishing, will last 50 years or more with no treating, but such practice is labor intensive and physically exhausting --not to mention much more expensive.[As a side note, the Pantheon --not the Parthenon, the Pantheon-- is a poured concrete building built about two thousand years ago, still standing today. Not only is it still standing, it's a beautiful building used daily.] Sealing the surface helps keep water from penetrating the concrete which, during freezing weather, breaks down its structure. The common surface spalling seen on concrete is also reduced with sealing. Spalling is pocking of pavement surface by frost; usually causing shallow chips, about dime to quarter size in diameter, to peal away from the surface. If spalling is reduced, so is moisture penetration. (The spalls are mini potholes which gather and absorb water into the concrete.)
Although there are many concrete sealers on the market, some have silicon oils and other chemicals which may seal the concrete too tight. It's unlikely that any of the manufactured sealers perform as well as an old time natural product --linseed oil.
Linseed oil (the oil from the flax seed), is an ancient water proofing product more famous for its use on leather and especially fine furniture and gun stocks. Up until recently, it was a primary base for oil paints. High end painters, craftsmen and artists still rely on this excellent natural oil, making it readily available in paint stores. There are two varieties, boiled linseed oil for faster drying and finish work, and raw linseed oil for base work and deep sealing. For sealing concrete, I use RAW LINSEED OIL..
The application method can vary: brush, roller or spray are all useful. I prefer spray, using a 2 gallon garden type hand pump sprayer, I have wet a 25 feet of 4 feet wide sidewalk in a matter of minutes. The application should be even and fairly light, and one coat only. Heavy application is not necessary and will only darken the concrete, which will give you no further gain. Do this, of course, on dry concrete (no rain for two or three days). if you choose to formulate the solution with a flammable liquid, wait fo a slightly breezy day to make the application. Once done, don't dare reapply for at least five (5) years, that's five years. Applying the sealer again too soon will result in a blotchy, dark and mottled surface. This stuff lasts a long time.
The formula is simple: I MIX ONE PART RAW LINSEED OIL TO TWO PARTS OF VEHICLE. What is vehicle? It is usually kerosene, but is could be paint thinner. CAUTION, CAUTION! THIS MIXTURE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE. I must be crazy to even tell anyone about this; but, it has been done for a long time by a lot of people, so if you exercise care, and act with safety in mind, you will probably have a positive result. By the way, many commercial products are also extremely flammable. There is a way to thin the linseed oil with water using an emulsifier to make the oil and water mix; just use the same one part oil to two parts of water and add (experimentally) enough emulsifier to get it to look milky. Emulsifier is available at the local health food store (just tell them you want to mix some oil and water.)
Again, I use raw linseed oil, and a thinning vehicle, one part linseed oil to two parts vehicle.
|
| |
|
|
